Puffy Bow Hair Tie Crochet Pattern (Free + Beginner-Friendly)

I love a hair tie that actually looks like something. Not a thin loop of fabric that disappears into your hair, but a real, dimensional bow you can see across the room.

This one is the puffy version of that idea. The ridged texture from the back-loop rows is what gives it the chunky, sculpted look instead of falling flat against your hair.

I commissioned this pattern from a crocheter I work with. She designed it from scratch, tested it across multiple yarn colors, and I bought the rights so I could share it here for free. This is the second pattern I’m publishing on Crochee, and it’s genuinely a 30-minute project once you’ve made one.

Quick Info

• Skill level: Beginner
• Finished size: about 8 to 10 cm wide
• Time to make: 30 to 45 minutes once you’ve made one
• Stitches used: ch, dc, hdc, BLO
• Cost in materials: under $2 if you already own a hook and a hair tie

Materials You’ll Need

• Milk cotton yarn, 4-ply, in your color of choice (one bow uses about 10 grams)
• 3 mm crochet hook
• One plain hair tie (the elastic kind, any color, but match it to your yarn for the cleanest look)
• Tapestry needle
• Small scissors

A note on yarn. The designer used 4-ply milk cotton because it has clean stitch definition and a soft hand that doesn’t itch on hair.

If you only have acrylic, that works too, but the bow will look a bit fuzzier and the BLO ridges won’t pop as crisply.

If your yarn is a different weight, the bow scales accordingly. Worsted weight with a 4 mm hook gives you a bow closer to 12 cm wide, which is a great size for adult ponytails.

Abbreviations

The whole pattern uses just four. Bookmark this list if any of them are new.

• ch = Chain
• dc = Double Crochet
• hdc = Half Double Crochet
• BLO = Back Loop Only
• R = Row

A quick note on dc vs hdc. Double crochet is the taller stitch (yarn over once before inserting the hook); half double crochet is shorter (yarn over once, but pull through all three loops at the end).

The main bow uses dc for height. The tail uses hdc for a tighter, narrower band.

And a note on BLO. When you see “BLO,” only insert your hook into the back loop of each stitch instead of both loops. On this bow, BLO across rows 2 to 5 of the main piece is what gives it the puffy ridged texture.

If you work both loops by accident, you’ll end up with a flatter, less defined bow. So watch for it.

Pattern: Piece 1 (The Main Bow)

This is the body of the bow. You’re crocheting a small flat rectangle that gets folded and pinched into shape later.

• R1: Ch 40, dc in 3rd ch from hook and across [38], ch 2, turn
• R2: BLO, dc across [38], ch 2, turn
• R3 to R5: Repeat R2

Fasten off and leave a long tail of at least 12 inches. You’ll use this same tail for wrapping the center later, so it needs to be generous.

A quick note on R1. Ch 40 means you crochet 40 chain stitches before the first dc. The first 2 chains count as your turning chain; the dc goes into the 3rd chain from the hook.

If your row ends up shorter than 38 stitches, you probably miscounted the starting chain. Pull it out and recount before going further. Mismatched piece lengths show in the finished bow.

Pattern: Piece 2 (The Center Tail)

This is the small band that becomes the visible “knot” in the middle of the bow. Half the width of Piece 1 and one fewer row.

• R1: Ch 20, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across [19], ch 1, turn
• R2: BLO, hdc across [19], ch 1, turn
• R3: Repeat R2

Fasten off and weave in the ends. You don’t need a long tail on this one. Piece 2 doesn’t get sewn, just wrapped.

Assembly: Folding and Seaming Piece 1

Fold Piece 1 in half lengthwise so the two short edges meet. Sew the short edges together with the long tail you left.

You’ll have a small tube with a visible seam. Push the tube inside out so the seam sits on the inside, like turning a sock right side out.

Once turned, the seam disappears completely. Don’t trim the tail yet, you still need it.

Assembly: Pinching the Center and Wrapping the Tail

Pinch the middle of the bow vertically until the front and back fold toward each other and the center forms a tight bundle.

Hold it pinched while you take the long tail and wrap it tightly around the middle several times. The first 2 to 3 wraps are what hold the shape; everything after is reinforcement.

Now slip Piece 2 under the pinched center, perpendicular to the bow, and continue wrapping. Wrap the yarn around both Piece 1 and Piece 2 together so they cinch as one unit.

Piece 2 should sit flat across the front and wrap around to the back. That’s the “knot” everyone will see.

Assembly: Attaching the Hair Tie

Position the hair tie at the back of the bow, behind Piece 2. Wrap the yarn one more time around the center, this time including the hair tie inside the wrap.

Tie two or three secure knots at the back to lock everything in place. The hair tie should sit firmly without slipping when you tug it.

Thread the leftover tail through your tapestry needle and run it through the wrapped center 2 to 3 times before snipping. The yarn grips itself and won’t unravel.

Tips for Success

A few things worth knowing before you start:

• Tension matters more than yarn weight. If you crochet loosely, the bow will look limp and the wraps won’t hold. Work tighter than your usual.
• Don’t skip BLO. Working both loops on rows 2 to 5 is the single most common mistake. The bow ends up flat and undefined. The ridged texture is the whole charm.
• Wrap snug, not strangled. Tight enough to hold the shape, loose enough that the bow still puffs out on either side. Two to three firm wraps is the sweet spot.
• Match your hair tie to the yarn. A black hair tie peeking out from under a pastel bow looks unfinished. Black yarn with black tie, mint with brown tie, white with white tie, and so on.
• Make a few in different colors. Each one only uses about 10 grams of yarn, so a single ball can produce 4 to 5 bows. They make small, satisfying gifts. Add a split key ring instead of the elastic and the same bow becomes a crochet bow keychain.

FAQ

How long does this take to crochet?

For a confident beginner, 30 to 45 minutes including assembly. The first one might take an hour while you get used to the BLO rhythm; the second one is fast.

Can I make this without working BLO?

You can, but it won’t be a puffy bow anymore. The bow will end up flat and limp without the ridged texture. If you want a flat bow, that’s a different (also valid) look.

What yarn substitutes work?

Any 4-ply (sport weight) cotton or cotton blend. Acrylic 4-ply works but feels softer and the BLO ridges are less crisp.

Worsted weight with a 4 mm hook scales the bow up to about 12 cm wide, which is a better size for adult ponytails.

Can I attach this to a hair clip instead of a hair tie?

Yes. Skip the hair-tie step at the end and instead sew or hot-glue the bow to a snap clip or alligator clip. The bow body itself doesn’t change at all.

Why does my bow look flat?

Two likely causes. Either you missed BLO somewhere on rows 2 to 5, or your wrapping at the center was too loose.

Pinch harder, wrap tighter, and the puff comes back.

Can I sell what I make from this pattern?

Yes. You can sell the finished bows. Please don’t republish or resell the pattern itself.

Make One. Tag Crochee.

If you make this pattern, I’d love to see how it turns out. The crocheter who designed it gets a kick out of seeing finished pieces in different colorways.

If you want to see every way this bow gets finished, my roundup of crochet bow patterns lines up ten free bows by skill level and how long each one takes.

Save the pattern to Pinterest so you can find it again, and check out more free patterns in the Hair Accessories category.